We devote this posting of the blog to Zerrin and Berrin. These are the two Istanbul beauties that have just welcomed us into their home after knowing us for 24 hours, maybe less. They have a great apartment in Kadikoy (this is spelt using an English keyboard and doesn't really reflect the Turkish way to pronounce it) right in the heart of a buzzing area of shops, market stalls, bars and restaurants. Needless to say, it was our kind of place!
Berrin very kindly gave up her bed for us, so we were in luxury. We had the upstairs with our own bathroom, no less!! They both had to work during the day, so they left us the keys and we got on with it! Just walking from the apartment to the ferry is a feast for the eyes. The fresh fish on sale in so many shops, all caught in the seas that surround Istanbul; the fresh pastries and baklava; the colourful fruit and veg, all this in amongst normal high street clothing and shoe shops with English schools on nearly every street corner. You can imagine the buzz. Even the kebap shops are setting up the donner and chicken kebabs in the morning - getting ready for lunch.
When you emerge from this slice of Istanbul life onto the port area you're in for another treat: the boat ride across the Bosphorus straits that split Istanbul in two. This is normal public transport, so it costs the same to travel on the tram as it does that boat - 75 pence. From the boat you really appreciate that Istanbul is built on 7 hills. On our first day back we went to the Topkapi Palace which was built in the 1500s by one of the Sultans and housed all subsequent Sultans of the Ottoman Empire. This isn't a history lesson, so if you want proper historical fact you need to look it up!!
The palace was amazing in its decor. The Harem was especially beautiful - although I'm sure it didn't take the edge off being a concubine! The palace was followed by lunch in our favourite cafe, after which we picked up our Indian visas. (Yipee!) News on the Pakistan visa is that we can get it in Tehran - looking forward to hanging out there for 5 days - not!!
That evening we had dinner in the flat and went out for ice creams and a night time view of Kadikoy.
Our final day in Istanbul was spent sorting out the spare wheel for the truck. We are a funny sight for the men that work in Istanbul Fiat; firstly because we are English, buying parts for an Iveco that stopped being built many years ago, and secondly because we are driving said truck to Vietnam. One of the men that works there lived in Hoxton for 2 and a half years and therefore had pretty good English. When he translated back to the guys in the shop all the countries we were going to, they laughed and asked if we were going to Kathmandu. They definitely thought we were hippies!!
I didn't realise until reading a book called 'The Wrong Way Home' (thanks Ed and Sarah) that the old Hippy trail was to travel overland to India. They used to go through Afghanistan as well. What a different place the world is now.
Talking with Zerrin and Berrin has given us a different understanding of Turkey and Turkish politics. It has been fascinating to try and get to grips with the position Turkey is in since the 'War on Terror'; a friend of the West and a 98% Muslim country. Geographically and politically you can see the tensions of sitting between East and West. For progressive women (and the left) in Turkey, I think now is a testing and complex time. I haven't done justice to what we learnt here, but chatting to these two women had stimulated the brain cells, to say the least.
I digress; after we had amused the men at Iveco, we visited the Blue Mosque en route to Kadikoy. We all went out to eat that evening in lovely part of town. One restaurant and a bar later, we returned to the flat. Zerrin and Berrin gave us Mexican (why Mexican? Because Zerrin loves the place and spent a year there last year) and Turkish charms - they are hanging in the cab of our van alongside our Maori, Tibetan and Chinese charms.
We left after hugs and kisses the next morning and followed Zerrin and Berrin towards the ferry. They went off to work (boo) and we went on to the ferry across the Marmara Sea to Yalova. From there we drove South to the North Agean Coastline. Without plan, we stopped at a campsite opposite a Greek Island with a beautiful sunset. As we pulled into the site, wondering whether to stay, we realised that in front of us was a home built Iveco coach with a Scottish couple next to it!!
Simon came over to say hello and we pulled up alongside them. We were given a cold beer and spent the rest of the evening chatting to him and Gina about travelling and what not. I think, so far, that one of the best things about travelling is what happens and who you meet when you least expect it!
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