Our India trip temporarily on hold, we flew to Kuala Lumpar. KL is famous for the Petronus Towers, the Grand Prix, China Town and not much else! Sorry KL if we do you a dis-service, but we just wanted to head out of there as soon as! Our cousins Chris and Mair had advised that we go to Taman Negara, the Malyaisan Rainforest. We booked up and chucked in a visit to the elephant sanctuary at the same time. We couldn't help notice on the way how good the roads were, and how smoothly our truck would have driven over them. Hey-ho!
Taman Negara, like every other rain forest in the world, is being steadily cut down. A small area is protected as a national park, but most of it is making way for huge palm oil plantations. The elephants, who are used to living in the rain forest, have a steadily decreasing area to function in. Consequently local palm oil plantations are complaining that the elephants are 'raiding' their plantations. Picture the scene: a bunch of elephants sitting around a map of a plantation, planning how they'll raid it! Come on guys, be fair, they're only having breakfast!!
Anyhow, the elephant sanctuary is called in whenever a herd is 'raiding' and therefore in danger of being shot. They try hard to bring the herd to the national park and secure their future. It's not an easy job, and some of the elephants who become isolated or have been injured get taken to the sanctuary itself. These are the elephants we fed, washed and rode. It was magic! Mark has put some photos on his facebook page.
We left the hefalumps and headed up further into the rain forest. That evening we did a night walk and saw - wait for it- giant ants!! It was an experience, don't get me wrong, but when you're walking with 15 other heavy footed humans, the chances of seeing any rare wildlife are slim!
The next day we walked up to the highest part and did a canopy walkway. Again, it was really cool to be in the rain forest to see the plants, hear the sounds, sweat like you've never sweated before and be petrified 100 meters up, looking into some ancient trees. It was actually great, but we were also getting used to the experience of being a backpacker and having to follow everyone elses path!
A boat trip up the river and a visit to a local tribe completed our package tour and we headed off the next day to the Perhentian Islands on the East coast of northern Malaysia. We had managed to hook up with a couple of Irish, Chris and Caroline, who had fortunately done more research than us and had an idea of where to go!
We arrived after a long day on Long Beach, on the smaller of the Perhentian islands. They were pretty stunning; tropical green hills, beautiful white sands, light blue leading to turquoise waters and sunshine, sunshine, sunshine. We settled into Panorama beach resort - ok it was a bamboo hut - and relaxed some more. We did a days snorkelling which was great - we saw turtles, sharks, a trillion different fish, corals, clams the lot. Oh, and Mark decided to follow the leader of the trip off the top of a 10 meter high lighthouse. He's still suffering with a bruised coccyx now and cursing himslef!! You're not 20 anymore, love!
A week on the Perhentians and we decided to move on towards Thailand. We took the boat and bus to Khota Baru in the North of Malayisa and stayed there for a couple of days whilst we waited for our 60 day visa for Thailand. You can get it at the border, but only for 15 days now. Visa secured we headed to the border and in the very deep south of Thailand boarded our first ever sleeper to Bangkok!
Sunday, 28 March 2010
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Friday, 26 March 2010
Some Indian photos - and the broken van!
Haggling on the cliffs at Varkala!
Steffen
The van leaves Agonda in that fated journey.
A brief party in between fixing vans!
need we say more?
all together now - aaah!
the glamorous side of Goa!
India - the end! Also known as 'The pressures too much!'
So, yes we have been lazy and not updated the blog like we should have but remember it's a bit of fun and not meant to be a chore!
Since Alan and Shams coming out several things have happened so I think the easiest way to update you is to hit it one by one. We also, as you'll see further down, ended up going our own separate ways for short and necessary period of time, so we have some different accounts of what's happened.
Shams and Al's trip moves to Kerala and so do we.
Our last post included photos from Agonda that Al and Shams had sent us and updated you to when we arrived in Kerala. We stayed with Al and Shams past the norther cliffs at Varkala at a beach called Oddayam beach. They stayed at a cool place called the Pink Anna (Elephant). The guy who ran the place and his chef were really nice people. We spent our time on the cliffs, in cafes, on the beach and enjoying Keralan food. The best was when the owner and chef said they would do us a proper Keralan Thali. It's served on a banana leaf and has maybe twelve different dishes, including fish, veg and daal. We vowed to bring Tracey and Martin back with us to try it too. Shams and Al's holiday was drawing to an end - even tho we had an extra bonus day as they had got their departure date wrong! We had a great time with them and were really sorry to see them go.
But, all was not lost! We were still in God's own country and to top it off had two more great mates coming out to see us!
Tracey and Martin come to visit!
We knew in advance where Tracey and Martin were staying - this time on the South Cliffs of Varkala. We went over to try and find ourselves a place to park that would be near them. The guest house opposite them had a car park they allowed us to stop in - for a small fee! So, we set up camp and the next day went to the airport to pick them up. They're such seasoned travellers, they arrived in the morning and stayed up the whole day to get into the time zone - we just visited the cliffs and had a relaxed day. Their place was really chilled out and had its own steps down the cliffs to the beach. I don't know whether it was a full moon or not, but the sea was really powerful! We went to the beach the next day and tried to go in for a swim. It took us many attempts amongst laughter and being soaked and pulled about by the sea to actually get beyond the breaking waves!
We took a trip to the backwaters - probably the most famous part of Kerala. They are a huge network of saltwater canals, rivers and tributaries that many Keralans live on. We travelled on a small canoe past shrimp farms and fish farms and stopped in many places to see plants like ginger, pineapple, peppercorns, coffee, beetle nut and tapioca - remember school dinners? We saw coir making - it was such a simple operation even we had a go and manged to do it! Seeing Kingfishers was a also a treat - they're such beautiful birds.
The pace of life on the backwaters is pretty slow. Local people use boats that are rowed and steered like punts in Cambridge, or I guess Venice would have been a more famous example! Whilst we were there you could see local boats that were selling different goods like fish, fruit and vegetables going from village to village - floating shops! It's almost impossible to live the fast life when you're dependent on canoes!
As promised we went to the Pink Anna for a Keralan Thali. We were really surprised to see when we arrived that the place was packed and apart from the usual two tables there were 8 tables full of people. The owner said that we had started a trend and an idea for them to have a regular Thali night. He sent us home happy and full in a courtesy cab!!
A week is a short time especially when you want some decent relax time as well, but we pretty much managed it. Our time in cafes bore fruit too, we saw a pod of dolphins swim past just after breakfast one morning. One of our trips into Varkala town was to the fish market where we bought King and Tiger prawns and had a bbq on the beach.
Our biggest dilemma whilst Tracey and Martin were there was what to do next. We had planned to ship the van to Malaysia and carry on from there, but a couple of things made us think again. Firstly, shipping to Malaysia was going to cost us around 1800 pounds - and that was just one way. Secondly, when we were in Agonda, Mandy and Steffen, two other overlanders had visited customs in Goa and had asked if they could leave their van with them whilst they flew to Australia - Its only 200 quid from Chennai to Perth. The reason why you have to see customs is because when you drive a vehicle into a country outside Europe you are effectively making a temporary export. You have a passport for the vehicle, called a Carnet de Passage, which allows an international body and the country you are in to monitor that export. You can't leave the country with out the vehicle - unless customs OKs it.
It occured to us that if we could leave our vehicle then we could go to SE Asia and potentially to New Zealand to see our cousins if the price was right. But it was a real wrench to leave our van and we had also driven 1000km down to Kerala and were no longer under the juristiction of Goan customs. We approached customs in Kochin, Kerala instead. We had Janey, our cousin coming to see us five days after Tracey and Martin were due to leave and needed to be in Kerala to see her. Unfortunately, Kochin said no. So then we were in a pickle! Jane was due on the 12th and flying out on the 22nd. It would have given us the impossible task of driving the length of India to Nepal in 6 days. Our visas ran out on 28 February!
We also knew that we were likely to be able to leave the van with Goan customs, because they'd already agreed to Mandy and Steffen doing the same. However, we couldn't leave it until after Jane had left to drive up there in case they said no, giving us again too short a time to get out of the country. So, after much discussion we made the decision that I would wait in Varkala for Janey and Mark would drive to Goa and see customs.
I have to say at this point that Tracey and Martin were brilliant at helping us out. At the time we found the whole thing a bit stressful as we didn't know what to do for the best. We'd also been together 24/7 for the last 7 months and found the whole idea of being apart a bit weird. We were also contemplating leaving the van - our home, which we didn't think we'd ever do! We were also really disappointed that Mark may not get to see Jane and that we'd be letting her down too. They were great. Its really useful to have an outside perspective on things when you're right in the middle of it, especially a perspective of two good friends. So, a big thank you to them both.
The morning they left, Mark and I had our last breakfast together and said our goodbyes. We didn't know then if we'd see each other for 8 or 20 days. So, it's here that our stories diverge.
Jo lives up the single life in Kerala
Mark scribed this title and I note a touch of bitterness in it!! I was actually very upset to see him go, although I felt better that he had now had a satelite navigation system, kindly brought our for us by Tracey and Martin. The Garmin was loaded with the maps for India and he was settled on his task! He was probably worried about me being alone and I was worried about him driving all that way by himself.
Anyway, I had got myself a small room right in the centre of Varkala cliffs. I didn't want to have to walk too far by myself anywhere and wanted to be near company and the local bars and restaurants. I went out that afternoon and straight away bumped into Trev, a Scottish guy who had come to India by motorcycle and whom we'd met in Amritsar. He had travelled most of the way with Pete and Caf (of curryhunt fame) and was on his way to meet them for a beer. What a stroke of luck for me.
We had a great evening chatting over a few beers. It was a real shame Mark wasn't there to enjoy it. We all missed him. My first challenge was that evening as I went home and found a massive cockroach in the bathroom. Aaaaagh! I hate those bloody things with a passion. We had a few once in the flat at home and I never got accustomed to them. Usually I would have sent Mark in there to deal with it!! This time it was just me, armed only with a birkenstock. I battered that thing like a woman possessed!! The next day, I realised with alarm that the bathroom wall had a gap at the top and I probably woke my neighbours!
The next few days and evenings I really enjoyed myself. I of course worried that this may have made me seem like a disloyal girlfriend, but I soon realised the futility of such thoughts and stoically carried on! During the day I visited the tailors to oversee the making of two dresses, wrote cards to various people, (most of which never arrived!) sunbathed on the beach, read my book, got on the net and visited various cafes. Pete and Caf and Trev and Karin were around and fortunately looked after me in the evenings. I must say that I was really enjoying having running water! In the van we had to be careful for every drop we used, but here, I could shower with abandon! Such luxury! Am I a disloyal overlander too?!
The room was too small for Jane and I, so I booked another place, just off the main drag - a sort of cottage affair with a lot more space and a nicer en suite. I was so excited to see Jane. I booked the cab to pick her up form the airport and set off at 3 in the morning. I'll carry on my part of the story after Mark's bit.
Mark arrives in Agonda and goes to meets customs when disaster hits!
So after 3 days of driving the first 11am - 10 pm and the second 6 am - 10 pm. The third day I was once again up at 6.00am. Another beautiful sunrise, warm glasses of sweet chai and deep-fried battered bananas from the road side tea stall and I was ready to go again. Paranoia started to creep in what if I got to Agonda and they had all left! But driving through the village and around the corner all the trucks were there. As I rolled up Steffen poked his head out the window smiling and Amelie started shouting "the English are back!" One of them was anyway.
"What are you doing back? Wheres Jo? We had party and the police arrived! Whats Kerala like?" After explaining the situation and blabbering for 30 mins it was time for a dip and to unwind with a late breakfast .
So, back in the van and today I'm taking Martin with me to try and find him some shock absorbers in Vasco de Gama about 70 km away. What is it about Martins and new absorbers - deja vu! But, it should be an easy quick hello to customs to confirm we can leave the van or not and then shocks and home. If we cant leave the van I will leave in a couple of days for the north and out of the country, but for now, just relax.
ummmmmmmmmmm
Past the airport down the hill to Vasco, under the bridge! Ahh maybe not under the bridge. Last time I came with Steffen on the moped and bridge heights were not an issue, but it is now. The van won't go under. No worries, select reverse, back up and go around. Reverse selected and then the engine stalled; strange! Turn the key:nothing! Turns but doesn't fire! I run through the options; ran out of diesel - not possible, to be sure I send martin for 20 litres, but first push the van back to the side of the road. Not easy being 4.5 tons but I have help from passers by, still no go, check for airlocks, bleed system, still no go and getting very hot .
OK, plan B. Find mechanic know from last time where mercedes garage (sort of) send around old guy who appears to know his stuff, bleeds system again! No joy, informs me its a timing problem, but how can it be? Everybody says timing chains rattle but don't slip! OK, go to chevey garage, try ringing around everybody to see if any body will take it in but every body says no! The boss of the Chevy garage puts me on the back of his moped and we do a tour of all the Indian rooadside mechanics; no don't do Ivecos; no, don't speak English; no we're too busy; no, no, no. We are both amazed, these guys are on the side of the road sitting in dirt with engines stripped down to cranks bearing shells the lot but only if its the make they know; Ashok Leyland, Tatra etc. Haven't they heard of transferable skills!
So whats next? I ask Sanjay if he knows of a tow truck to arrange towing back to Agonda and Steffen. Ring Steffen - my trucks broke, gonna bring it back, cool we'll sort it, see ya soon. Phone rings its Steffen - keep it there I'll come tomorrow, we'll check the valves haven't dropped and see what the true situation is. Its nice to know he's comming and I'm not on my own. Martin returns, no shocks, suggests he catches train home. So tow truck on hold nothing to do but go back to the van. Hot, dirty, miserable, very miserbale, can do something about first two but not third, shower but no fxxing water. Find super market selling office water butts 20 litres back to van more stares, more questions from passers by. Sugar cane juice stall next to van guys give me hand to fill tank and buy me a juice, great! Shower completed I still feel miserable and tired. I read the manual for third time have to get out, go in search of food and Internet..
Post message on hubb for advice and get milkshake. Man gives me a 2nd for free, he can obviously see the misery on my face. I cannot face food. Back to hot van and sleep, damn it next to train station as if the road is not busy enough. Off to cafe oppsite, they have been observing the events of the last 24 hours, more questions: what country, make of truck, what's the problem mechanic, be polite and wait for Steffen with hot sweet tea and lovley samossas, bread roll and samabal (sweet hot coconut sauce) mmmmmmmmmmmm lovley
The cavalry arrives!
Then there he is, my shining knight wearing a pisspot helmet, raybans and a cap "Time?" he demands. 10.30am - just under two hours for 70 k on a moped gotta be a record, more chai, quick smoke change of clothes and back under the bonet. Explain what I have done turns over the engine. Logic says the old man is right and the chain has slipped, good news is Steffen doesnt think its dropped a valve. More tea and back to see Sanjay at Chevey. We order a tow truck for tomorrow morning and organises some space for us up the road so we can work on the truck. Draws us a map and we go in search of our new home, turns out to be a spray shop and we have a space outside at the end. Four guys, one old security guard and two dogs! Just what we need. Next off to customs to explain predicament no lies or excususes needed.
Hello sir, come in, sit down, your clothes are very shabby! Explain situation. Oh, that van, the green one? Everybody in the office passed it on the way into work. Lots of discussion about what we see as a simple request eventually told not a problem - we can leave the van at customs. Come back in one week to inform us what is happening.
Next we try and get a hotel. Everywhere we go they say no! Is it because we look like two street urchins covered in oil or is it that they think we are a couple and they are homphobic! Off to the nearest cheapest clothing stall to buy two pairs of american style long pants and two deglo t- shirts with 'Its better in Goa' emblazened across them. Oh how cool we look. Back to the first hotel, still no! Two more that look like you rent the room by the hour! Gov't tourist hotel smells of piss, The Supreme has pool - no get a grip too expensive! But the Rama is a 'yes'. 15 quid sattelite TV, twin beds with clean sheets, shower, beer and movie chanel. No motor sport but we'll cope! Off to dinner.
Up early, need to meet tow truck at van. More lovely sweet tea and sambal breakfast. Stuffed! And then it arrives; bright yellow and red with tiger crane written in big letters down the side. It looks old but sounds good and they have a proper draw bar no dodgy rope for us.
Steffen in the van. I'm riding as out rider to show the way to the workspace. We go we arrive, 5 guys, lots of sweat and the van is pushed in backwards and comes eventually to a halt.
Waste no time. off with the front 4 bolts and the whole front section comes off -radiator and all, 'that's cool the Italians do have good ideas' remarks Steffen! Next is the the timing chain cover, oh shit, that all has to come off to get to the bloody tensioner. Unbelievable, what were the bloody Italians thinking! Remove water pump, an Indian head pushes in next to ours prodding and poking - no bloody room! My dad's fav phrase comes to mind "get your big f**ing head out the way - I can't see" but no, we stay calm, chain, fan belt, pulley, its seized, shit! (every turn of every bolt is painful if it's seized will it break will it go back together WD40 and lots of it, Steffens experience and patience is a god send.)
Go to vasco buy 3/4 inch 36 mm socket and air gun no air gun only and 1/2 inch bar half inch bar snaps, go back in search of 3/4 no luck, return and its off Indian guys got involved, after lots of " no, no that its alloy" followed by hair pulling and teeth grinding they undid it. Steffen doesn't know how nothing broke. It must have been the magic wd 40. Eventually we have a tray of bits. The tensioners fallen into several pieces. That's no good but at least our diagnosis was right. Pack up off to Agonda and order bits. They should be back in approx 8 days.
Jane the mule joins Jo in Kerala
I can't tell you how glad I was not to be with Mark when all the shit hit the fan/ or should I say timing belt! I did feel bad that Mark had to deal with it alone and I tried to console him during some of his miserable times.
Our poor cousin Jane had been sent on a mission to fetch and pay for a new clutch for us in the UK. It's just another thing with the van that needs sorting!! Well to be precise she was bringing a clutch, brake shoes and some other mechanical things that niether of us knew anything about. Suffice to say that it was 20kilos worth of mechanical equiptment! When she arrived I broke the news of what had happened to Mark - a much shorter version than above!
We did the only thing we could whilst we waited for the news from Mark about customs - enjoy ourselves! Beach, facials, food, drinks, laughs etc etc! When we found that customs had agreed to keep our van for 6 months we booked flights to Goa and joined Mark and the overland crew in Agonda. We booked into our beach huts and set about doing nothing!
It was lovely to see Mark again and we all relaxed together in the sun. There's not much to tell you about Goa as you've heard it all before, but it was great to see Jane relax. Quite often on holiday you feel like you should explore an area and pack in local history and culture - but our lifestyle on the beach was a perfect excuse to sleep alot, read magazines and books, eat food and enjoy a copious number of Pina Coladas!!
Up then Down
So on the phone to Dad Iveco in Bristol bits ordered mum pays and dad post lets just hope they arrive in tim.. Start to get paronoid whether the DHL office actuallyy exists as I cannot get in touch with them by phone. So hop on bike to check 100 km later all good. Only one thing to do now, sit, swim and eat.
Keep checking internet and D-day arrives another 100 km oooo a box of shiny new bits.
Like an idiot and an Excited child on his birthday had to open boxes, big big mistake too many enquiring hands, disaster struck - again! Someone twisted the tensioner and boing!!!!!! it popped apart. Dont panic! in the famous words of captain Manering, will just consult the bible (manual).
The tensioner can be dismantled by twisting anti clock wise, reassemble using special tool 12254, special fxxxxing tool what special tool, I start to weep and so does steffen!
So get this a brand new most inportant 300 pound part is no good, hours and hours of trying to resemble using shims from beer cans and alike no go. Then by a the hand of me it went back togeather but both unsure whether its was put back correctly and that we had not done it some damage in the process!
Only one way to find out, back to vasco and the truck two more days of cleaning surfaces, making gaskets we rebuilt the engine. Well here goes nothing, did'nt even get to finish turning the key and she fires into life and sounds good. I even done a little jig and smiles around the yard, looking good. Of I go down the road to find new fan belt and on my return I find Steffen sitting on the chair asleep not like him when there's work to be done oil change etc...oh hes not asleep, looks up what a face! problem I ask and he points to the van!
the Tensioner gave up the ghost we obviously damaged it puttoing it back togeather. GUTTED GUTTED GUTTED 4 days of work, pocket for of cash later, 500 km of moped riding and still no working truck sxxt.
As Steffen, my dad and every mechanic knows this shxt happens, except, get over it and do it again its the only choice you have apart from a match! But this time its gonna have to wait as we are out of time, visa coming to and end. Steffen says he will be back as its unfinished buisness. All I can say what a star not only skilled but fun too. We had a great few days, imagine it, two europeans living and working on a huge indian industrial estate. The locals could'nt believe their eyes as we shared breakfast with them in the local cafe, drank beer in the Lola bar and joined the masses in the open field for our morning toiletries.
Simply thanks Steffen its was a right crack and your a star, still dont forgive you for suggesting we buy 4 bottles of the local whiskey but hey you were the poor sod that had to wake up to me naked! Not a sight I would wish on my worse enemy.
Towing to Customs and Goodbye India.
We have had too many meetings with customs to detail them here (I can hear you breathing a sigh of relief). It didn't go smoothly to say the least. We were told that we could leave the van for 6 months. Having checked and triple checked all my paperwork and details with them, I arrived at customs on Friday 27 February to inform them that the truck was being towed to the warehouse and to do the final paperwork. I should leave my personal thoughts about customs until after we have retrieved our van, but it was possibly the worst bureaucratic nightmare I have experienced. They told us that day that we could only leave it for 4 months.
Had they informed us of this before, we could have arranged a 6 month extension to our carnet and left the van in Mumbai. However, ces't la vie!!
Once the sorry experince was over we left them and returned to our hotel with Steffen and Mandy. We enjoyed ourselves that evening and really looked forward to Malaysia.
India was a wonderful experience and it will be brilliant to return there in July to explore more of that beautiful country. I think on our return we'll go to Darjeeling and further into the Himalayas. What a treat!
Since Alan and Shams coming out several things have happened so I think the easiest way to update you is to hit it one by one. We also, as you'll see further down, ended up going our own separate ways for short and necessary period of time, so we have some different accounts of what's happened.
Shams and Al's trip moves to Kerala and so do we.
Our last post included photos from Agonda that Al and Shams had sent us and updated you to when we arrived in Kerala. We stayed with Al and Shams past the norther cliffs at Varkala at a beach called Oddayam beach. They stayed at a cool place called the Pink Anna (Elephant). The guy who ran the place and his chef were really nice people. We spent our time on the cliffs, in cafes, on the beach and enjoying Keralan food. The best was when the owner and chef said they would do us a proper Keralan Thali. It's served on a banana leaf and has maybe twelve different dishes, including fish, veg and daal. We vowed to bring Tracey and Martin back with us to try it too. Shams and Al's holiday was drawing to an end - even tho we had an extra bonus day as they had got their departure date wrong! We had a great time with them and were really sorry to see them go.
But, all was not lost! We were still in God's own country and to top it off had two more great mates coming out to see us!
Tracey and Martin come to visit!
We knew in advance where Tracey and Martin were staying - this time on the South Cliffs of Varkala. We went over to try and find ourselves a place to park that would be near them. The guest house opposite them had a car park they allowed us to stop in - for a small fee! So, we set up camp and the next day went to the airport to pick them up. They're such seasoned travellers, they arrived in the morning and stayed up the whole day to get into the time zone - we just visited the cliffs and had a relaxed day. Their place was really chilled out and had its own steps down the cliffs to the beach. I don't know whether it was a full moon or not, but the sea was really powerful! We went to the beach the next day and tried to go in for a swim. It took us many attempts amongst laughter and being soaked and pulled about by the sea to actually get beyond the breaking waves!
We took a trip to the backwaters - probably the most famous part of Kerala. They are a huge network of saltwater canals, rivers and tributaries that many Keralans live on. We travelled on a small canoe past shrimp farms and fish farms and stopped in many places to see plants like ginger, pineapple, peppercorns, coffee, beetle nut and tapioca - remember school dinners? We saw coir making - it was such a simple operation even we had a go and manged to do it! Seeing Kingfishers was a also a treat - they're such beautiful birds.
The pace of life on the backwaters is pretty slow. Local people use boats that are rowed and steered like punts in Cambridge, or I guess Venice would have been a more famous example! Whilst we were there you could see local boats that were selling different goods like fish, fruit and vegetables going from village to village - floating shops! It's almost impossible to live the fast life when you're dependent on canoes!
As promised we went to the Pink Anna for a Keralan Thali. We were really surprised to see when we arrived that the place was packed and apart from the usual two tables there were 8 tables full of people. The owner said that we had started a trend and an idea for them to have a regular Thali night. He sent us home happy and full in a courtesy cab!!
A week is a short time especially when you want some decent relax time as well, but we pretty much managed it. Our time in cafes bore fruit too, we saw a pod of dolphins swim past just after breakfast one morning. One of our trips into Varkala town was to the fish market where we bought King and Tiger prawns and had a bbq on the beach.
Our biggest dilemma whilst Tracey and Martin were there was what to do next. We had planned to ship the van to Malaysia and carry on from there, but a couple of things made us think again. Firstly, shipping to Malaysia was going to cost us around 1800 pounds - and that was just one way. Secondly, when we were in Agonda, Mandy and Steffen, two other overlanders had visited customs in Goa and had asked if they could leave their van with them whilst they flew to Australia - Its only 200 quid from Chennai to Perth. The reason why you have to see customs is because when you drive a vehicle into a country outside Europe you are effectively making a temporary export. You have a passport for the vehicle, called a Carnet de Passage, which allows an international body and the country you are in to monitor that export. You can't leave the country with out the vehicle - unless customs OKs it.
It occured to us that if we could leave our vehicle then we could go to SE Asia and potentially to New Zealand to see our cousins if the price was right. But it was a real wrench to leave our van and we had also driven 1000km down to Kerala and were no longer under the juristiction of Goan customs. We approached customs in Kochin, Kerala instead. We had Janey, our cousin coming to see us five days after Tracey and Martin were due to leave and needed to be in Kerala to see her. Unfortunately, Kochin said no. So then we were in a pickle! Jane was due on the 12th and flying out on the 22nd. It would have given us the impossible task of driving the length of India to Nepal in 6 days. Our visas ran out on 28 February!
We also knew that we were likely to be able to leave the van with Goan customs, because they'd already agreed to Mandy and Steffen doing the same. However, we couldn't leave it until after Jane had left to drive up there in case they said no, giving us again too short a time to get out of the country. So, after much discussion we made the decision that I would wait in Varkala for Janey and Mark would drive to Goa and see customs.
I have to say at this point that Tracey and Martin were brilliant at helping us out. At the time we found the whole thing a bit stressful as we didn't know what to do for the best. We'd also been together 24/7 for the last 7 months and found the whole idea of being apart a bit weird. We were also contemplating leaving the van - our home, which we didn't think we'd ever do! We were also really disappointed that Mark may not get to see Jane and that we'd be letting her down too. They were great. Its really useful to have an outside perspective on things when you're right in the middle of it, especially a perspective of two good friends. So, a big thank you to them both.
The morning they left, Mark and I had our last breakfast together and said our goodbyes. We didn't know then if we'd see each other for 8 or 20 days. So, it's here that our stories diverge.
Jo lives up the single life in Kerala
Mark scribed this title and I note a touch of bitterness in it!! I was actually very upset to see him go, although I felt better that he had now had a satelite navigation system, kindly brought our for us by Tracey and Martin. The Garmin was loaded with the maps for India and he was settled on his task! He was probably worried about me being alone and I was worried about him driving all that way by himself.
Anyway, I had got myself a small room right in the centre of Varkala cliffs. I didn't want to have to walk too far by myself anywhere and wanted to be near company and the local bars and restaurants. I went out that afternoon and straight away bumped into Trev, a Scottish guy who had come to India by motorcycle and whom we'd met in Amritsar. He had travelled most of the way with Pete and Caf (of curryhunt fame) and was on his way to meet them for a beer. What a stroke of luck for me.
We had a great evening chatting over a few beers. It was a real shame Mark wasn't there to enjoy it. We all missed him. My first challenge was that evening as I went home and found a massive cockroach in the bathroom. Aaaaagh! I hate those bloody things with a passion. We had a few once in the flat at home and I never got accustomed to them. Usually I would have sent Mark in there to deal with it!! This time it was just me, armed only with a birkenstock. I battered that thing like a woman possessed!! The next day, I realised with alarm that the bathroom wall had a gap at the top and I probably woke my neighbours!
The next few days and evenings I really enjoyed myself. I of course worried that this may have made me seem like a disloyal girlfriend, but I soon realised the futility of such thoughts and stoically carried on! During the day I visited the tailors to oversee the making of two dresses, wrote cards to various people, (most of which never arrived!) sunbathed on the beach, read my book, got on the net and visited various cafes. Pete and Caf and Trev and Karin were around and fortunately looked after me in the evenings. I must say that I was really enjoying having running water! In the van we had to be careful for every drop we used, but here, I could shower with abandon! Such luxury! Am I a disloyal overlander too?!
The room was too small for Jane and I, so I booked another place, just off the main drag - a sort of cottage affair with a lot more space and a nicer en suite. I was so excited to see Jane. I booked the cab to pick her up form the airport and set off at 3 in the morning. I'll carry on my part of the story after Mark's bit.
Mark arrives in Agonda and goes to meets customs when disaster hits!
So after 3 days of driving the first 11am - 10 pm and the second 6 am - 10 pm. The third day I was once again up at 6.00am. Another beautiful sunrise, warm glasses of sweet chai and deep-fried battered bananas from the road side tea stall and I was ready to go again. Paranoia started to creep in what if I got to Agonda and they had all left! But driving through the village and around the corner all the trucks were there. As I rolled up Steffen poked his head out the window smiling and Amelie started shouting "the English are back!" One of them was anyway.
"What are you doing back? Wheres Jo? We had party and the police arrived! Whats Kerala like?" After explaining the situation and blabbering for 30 mins it was time for a dip and to unwind with a late breakfast .
So, back in the van and today I'm taking Martin with me to try and find him some shock absorbers in Vasco de Gama about 70 km away. What is it about Martins and new absorbers - deja vu! But, it should be an easy quick hello to customs to confirm we can leave the van or not and then shocks and home. If we cant leave the van I will leave in a couple of days for the north and out of the country, but for now, just relax.
ummmmmmmmmmm
Past the airport down the hill to Vasco, under the bridge! Ahh maybe not under the bridge. Last time I came with Steffen on the moped and bridge heights were not an issue, but it is now. The van won't go under. No worries, select reverse, back up and go around. Reverse selected and then the engine stalled; strange! Turn the key:nothing! Turns but doesn't fire! I run through the options; ran out of diesel - not possible, to be sure I send martin for 20 litres, but first push the van back to the side of the road. Not easy being 4.5 tons but I have help from passers by, still no go, check for airlocks, bleed system, still no go and getting very hot .
OK, plan B. Find mechanic know from last time where mercedes garage (sort of) send around old guy who appears to know his stuff, bleeds system again! No joy, informs me its a timing problem, but how can it be? Everybody says timing chains rattle but don't slip! OK, go to chevey garage, try ringing around everybody to see if any body will take it in but every body says no! The boss of the Chevy garage puts me on the back of his moped and we do a tour of all the Indian rooadside mechanics; no don't do Ivecos; no, don't speak English; no we're too busy; no, no, no. We are both amazed, these guys are on the side of the road sitting in dirt with engines stripped down to cranks bearing shells the lot but only if its the make they know; Ashok Leyland, Tatra etc. Haven't they heard of transferable skills!
So whats next? I ask Sanjay if he knows of a tow truck to arrange towing back to Agonda and Steffen. Ring Steffen - my trucks broke, gonna bring it back, cool we'll sort it, see ya soon. Phone rings its Steffen - keep it there I'll come tomorrow, we'll check the valves haven't dropped and see what the true situation is. Its nice to know he's comming and I'm not on my own. Martin returns, no shocks, suggests he catches train home. So tow truck on hold nothing to do but go back to the van. Hot, dirty, miserable, very miserbale, can do something about first two but not third, shower but no fxxing water. Find super market selling office water butts 20 litres back to van more stares, more questions from passers by. Sugar cane juice stall next to van guys give me hand to fill tank and buy me a juice, great! Shower completed I still feel miserable and tired. I read the manual for third time have to get out, go in search of food and Internet..
Post message on hubb for advice and get milkshake. Man gives me a 2nd for free, he can obviously see the misery on my face. I cannot face food. Back to hot van and sleep, damn it next to train station as if the road is not busy enough. Off to cafe oppsite, they have been observing the events of the last 24 hours, more questions: what country, make of truck, what's the problem mechanic, be polite and wait for Steffen with hot sweet tea and lovley samossas, bread roll and samabal (sweet hot coconut sauce) mmmmmmmmmmmm lovley
The cavalry arrives!
Then there he is, my shining knight wearing a pisspot helmet, raybans and a cap "Time?" he demands. 10.30am - just under two hours for 70 k on a moped gotta be a record, more chai, quick smoke change of clothes and back under the bonet. Explain what I have done turns over the engine. Logic says the old man is right and the chain has slipped, good news is Steffen doesnt think its dropped a valve. More tea and back to see Sanjay at Chevey. We order a tow truck for tomorrow morning and organises some space for us up the road so we can work on the truck. Draws us a map and we go in search of our new home, turns out to be a spray shop and we have a space outside at the end. Four guys, one old security guard and two dogs! Just what we need. Next off to customs to explain predicament no lies or excususes needed.
Hello sir, come in, sit down, your clothes are very shabby! Explain situation. Oh, that van, the green one? Everybody in the office passed it on the way into work. Lots of discussion about what we see as a simple request eventually told not a problem - we can leave the van at customs. Come back in one week to inform us what is happening.
Next we try and get a hotel. Everywhere we go they say no! Is it because we look like two street urchins covered in oil or is it that they think we are a couple and they are homphobic! Off to the nearest cheapest clothing stall to buy two pairs of american style long pants and two deglo t- shirts with 'Its better in Goa' emblazened across them. Oh how cool we look. Back to the first hotel, still no! Two more that look like you rent the room by the hour! Gov't tourist hotel smells of piss, The Supreme has pool - no get a grip too expensive! But the Rama is a 'yes'. 15 quid sattelite TV, twin beds with clean sheets, shower, beer and movie chanel. No motor sport but we'll cope! Off to dinner.
Up early, need to meet tow truck at van. More lovely sweet tea and sambal breakfast. Stuffed! And then it arrives; bright yellow and red with tiger crane written in big letters down the side. It looks old but sounds good and they have a proper draw bar no dodgy rope for us.
Steffen in the van. I'm riding as out rider to show the way to the workspace. We go we arrive, 5 guys, lots of sweat and the van is pushed in backwards and comes eventually to a halt.
Waste no time. off with the front 4 bolts and the whole front section comes off -radiator and all, 'that's cool the Italians do have good ideas' remarks Steffen! Next is the the timing chain cover, oh shit, that all has to come off to get to the bloody tensioner. Unbelievable, what were the bloody Italians thinking! Remove water pump, an Indian head pushes in next to ours prodding and poking - no bloody room! My dad's fav phrase comes to mind "get your big f**ing head out the way - I can't see" but no, we stay calm, chain, fan belt, pulley, its seized, shit! (every turn of every bolt is painful if it's seized will it break will it go back together WD40 and lots of it, Steffens experience and patience is a god send.)
Go to vasco buy 3/4 inch 36 mm socket and air gun no air gun only and 1/2 inch bar half inch bar snaps, go back in search of 3/4 no luck, return and its off Indian guys got involved, after lots of " no, no that its alloy" followed by hair pulling and teeth grinding they undid it. Steffen doesn't know how nothing broke. It must have been the magic wd 40. Eventually we have a tray of bits. The tensioners fallen into several pieces. That's no good but at least our diagnosis was right. Pack up off to Agonda and order bits. They should be back in approx 8 days.
Jane the mule joins Jo in Kerala
I can't tell you how glad I was not to be with Mark when all the shit hit the fan/ or should I say timing belt! I did feel bad that Mark had to deal with it alone and I tried to console him during some of his miserable times.
Our poor cousin Jane had been sent on a mission to fetch and pay for a new clutch for us in the UK. It's just another thing with the van that needs sorting!! Well to be precise she was bringing a clutch, brake shoes and some other mechanical things that niether of us knew anything about. Suffice to say that it was 20kilos worth of mechanical equiptment! When she arrived I broke the news of what had happened to Mark - a much shorter version than above!
We did the only thing we could whilst we waited for the news from Mark about customs - enjoy ourselves! Beach, facials, food, drinks, laughs etc etc! When we found that customs had agreed to keep our van for 6 months we booked flights to Goa and joined Mark and the overland crew in Agonda. We booked into our beach huts and set about doing nothing!
It was lovely to see Mark again and we all relaxed together in the sun. There's not much to tell you about Goa as you've heard it all before, but it was great to see Jane relax. Quite often on holiday you feel like you should explore an area and pack in local history and culture - but our lifestyle on the beach was a perfect excuse to sleep alot, read magazines and books, eat food and enjoy a copious number of Pina Coladas!!
Up then Down
So on the phone to Dad Iveco in Bristol bits ordered mum pays and dad post lets just hope they arrive in tim.. Start to get paronoid whether the DHL office actuallyy exists as I cannot get in touch with them by phone. So hop on bike to check 100 km later all good. Only one thing to do now, sit, swim and eat.
Keep checking internet and D-day arrives another 100 km oooo a box of shiny new bits.
Like an idiot and an Excited child on his birthday had to open boxes, big big mistake too many enquiring hands, disaster struck - again! Someone twisted the tensioner and boing!!!!!! it popped apart. Dont panic! in the famous words of captain Manering, will just consult the bible (manual).
The tensioner can be dismantled by twisting anti clock wise, reassemble using special tool 12254, special fxxxxing tool what special tool, I start to weep and so does steffen!
So get this a brand new most inportant 300 pound part is no good, hours and hours of trying to resemble using shims from beer cans and alike no go. Then by a the hand of me it went back togeather but both unsure whether its was put back correctly and that we had not done it some damage in the process!
Only one way to find out, back to vasco and the truck two more days of cleaning surfaces, making gaskets we rebuilt the engine. Well here goes nothing, did'nt even get to finish turning the key and she fires into life and sounds good. I even done a little jig and smiles around the yard, looking good. Of I go down the road to find new fan belt and on my return I find Steffen sitting on the chair asleep not like him when there's work to be done oil change etc...oh hes not asleep, looks up what a face! problem I ask and he points to the van!
the Tensioner gave up the ghost we obviously damaged it puttoing it back togeather. GUTTED GUTTED GUTTED 4 days of work, pocket for of cash later, 500 km of moped riding and still no working truck sxxt.
As Steffen, my dad and every mechanic knows this shxt happens, except, get over it and do it again its the only choice you have apart from a match! But this time its gonna have to wait as we are out of time, visa coming to and end. Steffen says he will be back as its unfinished buisness. All I can say what a star not only skilled but fun too. We had a great few days, imagine it, two europeans living and working on a huge indian industrial estate. The locals could'nt believe their eyes as we shared breakfast with them in the local cafe, drank beer in the Lola bar and joined the masses in the open field for our morning toiletries.
Simply thanks Steffen its was a right crack and your a star, still dont forgive you for suggesting we buy 4 bottles of the local whiskey but hey you were the poor sod that had to wake up to me naked! Not a sight I would wish on my worse enemy.
Towing to Customs and Goodbye India.
We have had too many meetings with customs to detail them here (I can hear you breathing a sigh of relief). It didn't go smoothly to say the least. We were told that we could leave the van for 6 months. Having checked and triple checked all my paperwork and details with them, I arrived at customs on Friday 27 February to inform them that the truck was being towed to the warehouse and to do the final paperwork. I should leave my personal thoughts about customs until after we have retrieved our van, but it was possibly the worst bureaucratic nightmare I have experienced. They told us that day that we could only leave it for 4 months.
Had they informed us of this before, we could have arranged a 6 month extension to our carnet and left the van in Mumbai. However, ces't la vie!!
Once the sorry experince was over we left them and returned to our hotel with Steffen and Mandy. We enjoyed ourselves that evening and really looked forward to Malaysia.
India was a wonderful experience and it will be brilliant to return there in July to explore more of that beautiful country. I think on our return we'll go to Darjeeling and further into the Himalayas. What a treat!
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